Everybody Knows This Is Nowhere

Sunday, October 29, 2006

Modern Times



I've had been listening to this for over six weeks and still can't get enough. Bob Dylan continues to amaze me. The roots and history of American music are moving through him. He's reached a point now where age is strengthening him, and his experience is settling in him, creating a soundtrack for the modern world. Slow and thoughtful; just what our world needs more of.
This record makes for 3 remarkable releases in a row. Contrary to earlier criticism, the kid is aging very well.

Saturday, October 28, 2006

New Old Man's Pants

I recently bought some new pants for work. Colder weather is just around the corner and it's time to put the summer light-weight-relaxed duds away. For me, second year in Japan means goodbye to dress pants and hello to something more casual and requiring no crease. Anyway, upon returning home with my new gear I discovered the label I hadn't noticed at the store.



If I'd seen this label before I might've had to buy a third pair.
It's all about lifestyle for me.
In Japan, Clint just stars as himself.

Wednesday, October 18, 2006

Back in business...again



Looks like this blog is becoming a seasonal thing. Looking back at my posts I see the most recent comments are about summer's arrival and before that the rainy season. Well, here we go again. Time races by and now another season turns with the arrival of autumn.



Not that so much has changed seasonally yet. It's still quite warm though teachers and students have slipped into their winter gear as they like to go by the calender. Any remaining rice fields are a golden brown and beginning to lay down. The rest have been cut and burned filling the air with a smoky fall aroma. Could be pleasant, but it makes me wheeze and sneeze.





So where have I been? I think 2+ months between posts is a new record for my sporadic blog.

I feel justified because my head really hasn't been here lately.

There was our trip to Indonesia and all we learned there. Not only the experience of living a simpler life, but on the even more personal level. We will always remember our trip, above all, for the sneaking suspicion that grew each day to the point that confirmation was a moot point. It began with Miss Yaki being turned off certain smells. This soon lead to her giving the crossed arm X (dame!) to all the wonderful Indonesian food entirely. We're talking all vegetarian here, and tempeh and curries and everything! Our suspicions were all but confirmed when one day in the jungle she remarked to our guide, "hey, what's that smell?" He sniffs, pauses, "monkey...maybe...yesterday."

The final confirmation came back in J Land with a printout of a wee bean, and my Princess Yaki is pregnant! And of course this means, we're pregnant!!

So this blog has sat. It's sat while we've tried to share our wonderful news with as many people as possible. It's sat while I've worked my head around this exciting surprise. I must say, though of course a little scary (I'd be a fool not to have some of that feeling), this change has felt good from the beginning, and somehow right, and right now. Our plans will change in the short term, but I'm looking forward to the beginning of a great adventure as our family is set to grow by one.

And now, in convenient non-blog-style top-to-bottom linear order: Our trip to Indonesia.

Friday, October 13, 2006

Orang Project

Our journey started ridiculously early one morning in Kurashiki.

A walk led to a train. Another walk led to an extremely fast train. Yet another train, and soon we were at Kansai airport; ready to board a plane and rock and roll out of Japan.

It would take 2 more planes (both with wonderful 'rush' seating), waiting at 3 more airports, 2 airport shuttle/taxi rides, a night at the terminal hotel in Jakarta airport, and finally a 3+ hour ride down dodgy roads before we reached our destination: The Orangutan Health Project.





These were our modest, but adequate digs for part of the next 2 weeks. No running water. Squat toilets. Cold bucket showers. Spotty electricity with blackouts referred to in Indonesian (with a detectable hint of affection) as mati lampu. With cockroaches, rats, chirping geckos, and the occasional toad stopping by.





The buildings were perched over fish ponds and surrounded by rice fields. Our neighbours were regular families engaged in farming and raising fish. Sounds of an early morning and frequent daytime rooster crowing, lambs amid the rice fields bleating, and cicadas singing at night. It was a great spot. Smack in the middle of real life in Sumatra.











The first couple of days were mostly spent settling in to our new surroundings. I quickly discovered this spot...



...and found some much needed relaxation accompanied by a book.

We also explored some of the local area; getting supplies in the nearby towns of Bukit Lawang and Bohorok. A major hightlight of these outings was the transportation itself. Collective style buses with everyone grabbing a ride on the back, on the roof...wherever there was room. I love traveling like this!







One thing that took no time settling into was the food provided for us. We were truly pampered. Batwa, a local woman, arrived every morning to prepare our lunch and dinner which she would leave for us. We were treated to proper, delicious, Indonesian home cooking. All vegetarian fare featuring spicy curries, tempeh done in various ways, spring rolls, omelettes, peanut dishes, and rice. After a year in the vegetarian wasteland that is Japan, I thought I may have stumbled on to heaven.






Time to introduce our 'fellow travelers'.

First, the volunteers:

Richard


Michele


Caroline


Matt


Bob


Anne


My beloved Miss Yaki


Some guy we found by the side of the road


Our fearless leaders, Andrea and Clare


Our local guides and friends:

Mbra


Wanda


Romi

Ah, those ginger monkeys...

Time to get down to why we came.





As everyone should know, rainforests the world over are disappearing at an alarming rate. Nowhere are they vanishing faster than in Indonesia, and particularly on the island of Sumatra. Check this graphic showing the rate of loss on Sumatra (the sixth largest island in the world...just shy of twice the size of Great Britain ) over the last 60 odd years:


With the loss of this rainforeset comes a loss of habitat putting thousands of species at risk of extinction. The rainforest of Sumatra is home to critically low numbers of tigers, elephants, rhinos, and of course orangutans. These species are not only among the most identifiable to people, but their continued survival is of upmost importance to the survival of diversity in the rainforest environment. Orangutans for one, help maintain the continuity of thousands of species of plants, trees, and the animals that rely on them, by recycling and redistributing seeds found in the food they eat.





The Orangutan Health Project, with which we volunteered, is dedicated to studying the overall health of the local population of Sumatran orangutans with an eye to learning about how they self medicate. It's a scientific study looking to gather invaluable data that will aid in their survival both in the wild and in captivity. The project helps to shine a light on the plight of the Sumatran orangutan by inviting international volunteers to assist in the program by bringing resources with them, and by then returning to their home countries with a desire to share what they've learned.

We decided to step up to the opportunity. The opportunity to go beyond tourism and try to be of some help; to experience the remarkable environment of a majestic South Asian rainforest while it's still possible.



We saw this remarkable creature on our way to visit the orangutan feeding platform for the first time. We were passing by the home/business of a local friend of the project when he asked if we wanted to see a snake. He called it a 'moon snake' because it only comes out with the new moon. He said it'd been in the tree for days which was to be believed because we would see this same 'moon snake' again a few times over the next days. According to the story, it doesn't move because it doesn't have to. Birds bring it food so this snake can be the branch.

Anyway, back to our morning at the feeding platform. There used to be a rehabilitation centre on the outskirst of the Gunung Leuser Park for orangutans that had been rescued from kidnapping. The centre is gone, but twice a day they still feed any semi-wild orangutans that wish to drop by. In reality it's mostly for tourists, but this would be our first chance to see orangutans in their natural habitat.



After watching a mother and baby grab some bananas and then return to frolicking in the jungle canopy above, we noticed some of the park officials brining another orangutan to the platform in a net. Apparently this female orang was one of only a few still left at the rehab centre and they have been slowly trying to introduce her to the jungle setting. She prefers to spend her time hanging out with people, and sadly is not yet comfortable in her natural home.





After spending some time watching the orangutans, and some time watching them get dangerously close, we headed off deeper into the jungle for our 'practice trek'.



We'd only been hiking along for maybe 15 minutes when out of nowhere an orangutan hopped into our path splitting our line as we moved a safe distance away in opposite directions. Mbra sent the orang up a tree. Seems it was the same friendly female we'd seen earlier at the feeding platform. I felt bad for her because I think she just wanted to join our hike, but we had to leave her behind. The potential disease germs we volunteers were carrying, and her incredible strength and unpredictability just didn't lend themselves to the make of a good treking team.

The trek was a great introduction to the Sumatran rainforest. With Wanda leading the way pointing out plants used for medicine, tree bark used as glue or a firestarter, a fresh orangutan nest, and a massive bee hive. It wasn't too strenuous a day, but still challenging at times. Making our way through the dense foliage, crossing steams, and swinging from vines as we went down steep slopes made us all feel a bit like Indiana Jones or something. Well, me anyway.

The best part of the trek was when we came across of couple of orangutans lounging in the trees. This time we were far from the feeding platform making it a more authentic experience. With birds chirping, and the calls of gibbons as our soundtrack, we watched these two climb about the foliage swinging from vines in a seemingly haphazard way. One climbed down low, and almost seemed to be posing at one point. It was remarkable to be able to make eye contact with her and wonder what she might be making of us. Eventually the other orangutan got a little annoyed with our hanging about and bared its teeth. We decided it was time to move on.





While we were observing these orangutans I tried taking footage instead of many pictures. So if I ever become web savy enough I'll post that footage right here...

Anyway, our trek was soon over and everyone survived. Here's the picture to prove it.



That's Wanda checking his checking his text messages at the edge of this tropical wilderness.


Our next day was the last before we set of for a six day camp in the rainforest. We spent the day doing research tasks and generally being useful.


Anne and I being very useful.


Matt and Caroline looking busy. I think Caroline's work is fecal matter related. Nice one.


Here's Miss Yaki getting the job done with Bob anxiously awaiting his turn.


Wow, that Miss Yaki can't help but be helpful.